Wednesday, April 10, 2019

Slip, Grip And Stop



After the thrashing that Steve gave my R1 I figured it was time for some TLC...or as any normal person would call it, routine maintenance. But I wouldn't be stopping at the R1 though. No, I have done 5360km(3330mi) on the BMW in the 9 months that I have owned it so it was also due for some lovin'.

Chillertek, The Thrasher......




The Slip


The R1 oil (slippery stuff) and genuine filter were done with very little fuss. Looking at my records, it was almost 3 years to the day and 6750km(4200mi) since the last change. Whoops!! Time gets away from us, doesn't it?!


The Grip

R1 Phat Tyre

The R1 tyre change was as blogged about previously here.

BM Semi Knob

The Beemer got a new rear tyre about 2 weeks ago, a Heidenau K60 scout to match the front Scout so I rounded out the maintenance with an oil (Castrol Activ 4T) and genuine filter change on her as well.

 No photos of the Beemer change as I was too aggravated by the stupid ally bash plate retention bolts. The four bolts on the sump were fine but there are two 6mm bolts at the front of the plate that don't have captured nuts and there is no way to get to them to hold them!


 I ended up with a long flat blade screw driver to lock the nut up while I undid the T30 Torx bolt. FFS!
Needless to say, when it went back together it only got one bolt as I could juuuuussssttt get to that nut to hold it. I will have to come up with a nut capture system to get that issue sorted in future.

'ol lefty.

The Stop


While I was at all this "maintenance" stuff, I thought it might be time to throw some new brake pads at both ends of the R1. The recent tyre change gave me a chance to have a close look at the pads and the rears were wafer thin while the fronts weren't far behind.

Front pads.

I sourced some DP Brakes pads in a HH compound (well, for the fronts at least) from the local Yamaha dealer. Unfortunately they didn't have the EBC pads I was after/familiar with, so we will have to see how the DPs go. Will helped me clean up the calipers and torqued them back up after we were done. He is coming along nicely!


After all of this hard yakka it was time to get out for a spin, with coffee at my new favourite coffee shop - The Flying Bean - at Beechmont. I just might have to try out the cabins at some stage.....







Cheers!







































7 comments:

  1. looks like you need a mate with a welder?

    Hope Chillertek sponsored some brake pads or something ;)

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    Replies
    1. A welder? I did try making up a plate with the nuts welded to it but 6mm nuts are very thin and I melted both so gave up in disgust.

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  2. I should have charged him an hourly rate to clear out the cob web from that old R1...

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  3. I always change the oil and filter around 6000 km too despite an official service interval over twice that on both the Suzuki and KTM. Cheap insurance despite the longevity of modern lubricants.

    We think alike on pads - HH are fantastic for spirited road riding and my last 3 bikes had EBC HH in them. Like you, I have difficulty in local sourcing and normally get them through eBay.

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  4. Yep, cheap insurance..or it used to be. A bottle of Motul 5100 is $70 here these days. I would hate to think what an engine rebuild would cost though. Certainly more than the old R1 is worth I would imagine.
    I will post up about the brake pads eventually. I have replaced them but haven’t been for a ride to bed them in yet. Anything special should do? I live on a hill so they need to work sorta right away! ;)

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  5. Hahaha - our house has a 16 degree driveway onto the road so decent brakes are pretty important here too :-) . After fitting them, I go out for a 20 km or so ride and progressively increase the braking pressure from higher speeds. Partially to bed them in but equally importantly, to get used to the characteristics without going on my arse :-)

    ReplyDelete

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